sophia_sol: photo of a 19th century ivory carving of a fat bird (Default)
soph ([personal profile] sophia_sol) wrote2022-07-09 11:16 am

Make, Sew and Mend, by Bernadette Banner

Bernadette Banner is someone who I've been following on youtube for uhhh years at this point I think, because I just find her pleasant to watch and listen to, but I have never found her on-video instructions to be entirely clear to follow, so this book about how to sew is a wonderful addition to the Bernadette Banner oeuvre and I'm definitely glad I bought it. It has good clear photos and explanations showing you exactly what to do for everything it's teaching!

I've been sewing since I was a child, taught the basics on how to use a sewing machine and follow a commercial pattern by my mother, and then have picked up various useful sewing skills piecemeal on my own as an adult. This way of learning to sew leaves you with gaps in your knowledge, and so although in a lot of ways Banner's book is far more introductory than I need, in other ways it taught me EXACTLY the simple obvious little things that I really ought to have already known.

Like for example you're supposed to sharpen your tailor's chalk! that makes so much sense! how did I never think of that myself??

Also I have now learned how to properly anchor your thread when beginning to hand-sew, instead of always using a knot like I previously did. And the knot would never hold through the weave, so I'd double my thread and knot it together at the end so I could come through the loop to fully anchor my thread, which means that I've always had to sew with doubled thread. Maybe now I can Not do that!

I have also always done french seams the hard way, sewing the actual garment seam first and then caaaaaarefully folding in the seam allowance inside and awkwardly pinning it so I can sew the two sides of the seam allowance together with the raw edges enclosed, and the Actual way you're supposed to do it makes so much more sense, lol. Though also I am over french seaming, and turning and felling is the way to go imo - or just whip stitching the seam allowance together if it doesn't need the full security of turning and felling or french seaming.

And I love how Banner demonstrates how to put a really tidy looking patch onto a hole in a garment! It looks so good and so sturdy as well when done that way! And her tips on how to add a gusset to fix the armscye of a purchased shirt where lifting your arm lifts the whole shirt is a GREAT way to improve the fit of mass-market clothes and I think I'm highly likely to do this in the future.

I also enjoyed the little one-page essays by guest contributors she included throughout, from people of various backgrounds and identities and experiences, to make it clear to the reader that sewing or mending your own clothes can be for ANYONE, not just white cis conventionally-attractive not-visibly-disabled women like Banner herself. Banner always makes an effort to be thoughtfully inclusive and I love that about her.

An excellent choice for my first purchase of a how-to-sew manual as someone who already sews.
hamsterwoman: (Default)

[personal profile] hamsterwoman 2022-07-09 04:41 pm (UTC)(link)
Ooh, this sound potentially promising -- how do you think this would work for someone familiar with hand-sewing (taught at home, so also making the same mistakes of double thread because knot, etc.) but looking to learn how to use a sewing machine? My daughter asked for her great-grandmother's sewing machine and has it now, but nobody except YouTube to teach her, so I'm wondering if this book would be a good addition.
hamsterwoman: (Default)

[personal profile] hamsterwoman 2022-07-09 05:09 pm (UTC)(link)
Ah, got it! I'll still point it out to her in case she wants to learn how to do simple hand-sewing properly -- she's having to do some to piece together crochet things, and while the yarn hides a lot of sins, she might still benefit from knowing how to do it right. Thank you!
superborb: (Default)

[personal profile] superborb 2022-07-09 05:36 pm (UTC)(link)
Huh! Now I know the way I was taught in home ec to anchor my thread was wrong!
whimsyful: arang_1 (Default)

[personal profile] whimsyful 2022-07-09 09:14 pm (UTC)(link)
Ohh this sounds super useful as someone who's a total amateur at hand sewing! (I've always just double threaded and made a giant knot to use as an anchor)
silverflight8: bee on rose  (Default)

[personal profile] silverflight8 2022-07-10 01:13 am (UTC)(link)
All my sewing knowledge was acquired when I was a 14 year old (and had no ability to buy any supplies) and this revelation that there's a better way to anchor your thread when handsewing is just :O there is???
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[personal profile] applenym 2022-07-15 05:57 pm (UTC)(link)
This sounds like just the book I've been looking for! I mostly want to be able to hand-hem pants and other clothing items as needed, but I do it so seldom that I always seem to forget the best methods when the time comes around again. Having a reference book would be very helpful.
chestnut_pod: A close-up photograph of my auburn hair in a French braid (Default)

[personal profile] chestnut_pod 2022-07-20 10:19 pm (UTC)(link)
Glad to hear this review from a much more experienced sewist than I! I recently purchased it as a near-absolute beginner and found it very helpful, and have used it to learn how to put in a buttonhole.